Cooking, clientele and decor in this swanky hotel restaurant are all really, really rich, thanks to foie gras, old Cheshire money and impressive antique furniture respectively. Classically trained and with lots of luxury ingredients to play with – caviar, truffles and lobster all feature strongly – chef Simon Radley makes sure punters get what they pay for. As do the well-oiled front-of-house staff, who make showy use of both trolleys and silver domes. The heavy-weight wine list is one of the country's best, but (as with the rest of the experience) it comes at a price.
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