Erected in 1865, the imperious half-timbered Grosvenor is Chester’s pride and joy – it’s also the perfect luxury-strewn backdrop for Simon Radley’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Occupying a “timeless” pillared room overseen by a veritable battalion of dutiful waiters, it promises big-shot, “über-expensive” food for the smart Cheshire set who come here dressed to the nines. High levels of technical skill and ability are a given and the kitchen plays lots of tricks with the palate – although some have found the results a tad over-rich and “unseasonal”. A starter called ‘obsiblue’ brings wafers of sweet melon, native lobster, scorched prawn and ginger, while ‘Edge’s rare breed’ is pastrami-style ox tongue served with peppered steak, smoked onions and pickles. Meanwhile desserts mix classic patisserie with the odd joke or two (jammy figs with sugar pastry, almond, blackberry and lemon, for example). A monumental wine list also awaits those with deep pockets full of old money.