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At first glance, the menu at Morston Hall – four courses, no choice – makes for rather conventional reading. However, in the hands of the talented Galton Blackiston, some kind of alchemy transforms
the mundane into culinary magic: consider, for example a springtime mousse of peas & smoked bacon, served with a hen’s egg poached for two hours at a steady temperature of around 65ºC, which
allows the white & yolk to set to a precise point of runny perfection. Blackiston’s skill also shows in sea-fresh, hand-dived scallops with local sea bass & delicately flavoured, rosy-pink
herb-crusted rack of lamb, while a light dessert of passion fruit tart with mango sorbet explores the balance between sharpness & sugar. The young sommelier displays a confidence beyond his
years when recommending wines, either by the bottle or the glass.