The Olive Branch

My trip to the Olive Branch was over the last bank holiday of the year coinciding with a day trip to Rutland Water and as a country pub it lived up to every expectation and more. If you're the type of Londoner to dream of days out of the hustle and bustle and into the open countryside with vists to idyllic country pubs, but still expect the restaurant quality you've become accustomed to in the old smoke – then this is a place to check out. When you first walk in it is hard to understand why this place is Michelin starred with modest bits of odd furniture strategically scattered around the venue, but once the food menu makes itself available along with the complimentary and yummy warm pumpkin bread you soon start to see ithe michelin rays shine through.

Starters such as the twice baked cheese souffle fill the stomach with delight though still leaving more than enough room for mains. My starter of fried fish came on a stone plate with an array of tasty samples. Mains are innovative yet blend age old ingredients together beautifully, such as the lemon sole with chorizo and parmentiere potatoes.

This really is a unique blend of pub grub that comforts the soul and delights the tastebuds. The friendly service from all staff goes on to make the experience all the more delightful. Ben, who I believe is the manager, even helped us find the best route for a much needed after-lunch walk raound Rutland water. If you are visiting the area soon, leave the picnic and the soggy sandwiches behind and head straight to the Olive Branch (don't forget to book) – you won't regret it.

I wish those Michelin Men would run a course to explain to us mere mortals what they are looking for when they award those coveted stars! I have spent many an hour, up and down the country, sampling Michelin fare, and just when you think you have got it sussed, they throw in a curve ball! And the Olive Branch Inn is just such a curve ball. Don't get me wrong, the food is wonderful, it is just that the surroundings don't quite match up to the delights on your plate. It is a very rustic pub, and I have had wonderful meals in rustic pubs before and assumed that the lack of recognition, from Michelin or indeed anyone else, was due to the lack of fanfare and finery of the establishment. Apparently not so! There is no fanfare or finery at the Olive Branch Inn, so much so that when we walked in my husband asked, where is the restaurant? You are not greeted at the door, and have to queue at the bar to get your table pointed out. The wine list is adequate, but not long, although it is backed up by a list of ‘specials’, the only problem being they are displayed on blackboards around the bar, so take note when you are queuing! The menu is fairly standard gastropub fare, although exceptionally well done. You start with a small loaf of warm home baked bread, ours was pumpkin. My starter was prawn and shrimp terrine with melba toast, very good but a little bland. My husband fared better on the flavour front with mackerel salad with potatoes and truffle oil. But my main course of belly of pork was to die for. Cooked to perfection so it melted in your mouth, with a very thin crust of perfectly crispy fat. Accompanied by the standard fondant potato and red cabbage, but all to a very high standard. My dessert of treacle tart was delightfully light, apart from a slight overcooking of the crust. But our attention was drawn to the next table, who were oohing and ahhing over the platter of desserts for 2. There was 4 of them, and they had ordered 2, but they could have got away with one between four, such was the generosity of the portions! When the bill arrived we were delighted to discover that you obviously have to pay for fanfare and finery. Excellent value for money considering the quality of the food. The back of the menu also shows you the locations of all the local producers where the food is sourced, so if you are on a foodie weekend you can scour the countryside the following day to recreate your dinner! We stayed across the road in Beech House, owned by the Olive Branch, in one of the six comfortable rooms, which again are very good value for money. Breakfast is served in the barn at the back of the pub which also serves as a private dining room, and is as hearty and high quality as you would expect. I do not begrudge the Olive Tree Inn their Michelin star for one moment, I am just left wondering what the establishments in the lowly county of Bedfordshire have to do to attract the attention of the great and the good in the Awards World!