The Cricketers has gained a countrywide reputation, largely because it’s run by Trevor and Sally Oliver – proud parents of pukka boy Jamie. As you’d expect, the place is generally full to bursting with people “wanting to know if the lad learned it all from his parents”. The food tips its hat to the boy wonder, although the results are reckoned to be more “Jamie’s Italian than Fifteen”. Still, all the signs are there, from the Amalfi olives and charcuterie boards to funky salads and freshly made pasta (chicken and bacon pappardelle with thyme pangrita and grated parmesan, say). Elsewhere, the kitchen delivers a decent version of beef Wellington, as well as pies with mash, and crispy duck breast on stir-fried pak choi. There are “beers for the boys and wines for the girls”, prices are fair and service is pleasant – just beware the head-cracking beams in this 16th-century free house.