Since Ken Adams swapped his Ludlow restaurant for a 16th-century Welsh longhouse, the place has evolved from a rustic inn to a restaurant with rooms, with the emphasis firmly on dinner. The location means lunchtimes are quiet, so be sure to book for lunch or you may find the place closed. With its rabbit warren of beamed rooms & open fires in winter, it retains pubby credentials, while in summer there’s a lovely garden for pre-dinner drinks. Cooking is refreshingly different for this neck of the woods, focusing on local raw materials & seasonal ingredients. Summer dishes might include a starter of Cornish crab ravioli with avocado & coriander salsa, followed by cheese-glazed lobster in tomato, cheese & Cognac sauce, or roast loin of organic Welsh Black Mountain lamb with polenta, roast tomatoes, aubergine puree & red pepper pesto. Puds include nods to British retro chic – meringue timbale with strawberries & elderflower & lemon syrup. There’s nothing ground-breaking about the food, yet its discreet comfort & the consistency of the cooking attracts a wide-ranging crowd. Breakfast is a treat if you’re staying the night.