Smart, classy Peat Inn does tweed curtains, low beams and log fires better than just about anyone. Indeed, it’s become an iconic Scottish destination, beloved by its many fans and a source of delight for newcomers who stumble upon the place. Chef/proprietor Geoffrey Smeddle’s cooking has certainly raised the bar in these parts – picking up a Michelin star along the way – and his commitment to seasonal produce is as unwavering as ever. His ever-changing menu might open with a complex dish of smoked breast and cannelloni of wood pigeon, crisp tongue bonbons and spiced apple compote, ahead of lemon sole fillets with poached lobster, samphire, young fennel, new potatoes and shellfish beurre blanc, with a pavé of salted Amedei chocolate, coffee mousse, blood orange sorbet and chocolate crackling to round things off. Service is formal and expert, but never stuffy.