It may be out of the way, but when you walk through the door of the Horn of Plenty you feel as if you’ve come home. With its polished floorboards, huge windows, plump furnishings and a restaurant overlooking the stunning Tamar Valley, this civilised house draws an appreciative crowd of regulars – from all over the country. The kitchen champions West Country produce for its Mediterranean-accented cooking, with spectacularly fresh seafood topping the bill: how about a dreamy pairing of marinated mackerel with crab and exotic fruits, or smoked eel parfait with seared scallop and curry spices? Meat and game are handled with considerable aplomb, too: a celebration of local pork with fresh olive purée and a green olive and apple salsa, say. Caramelised pear with filo puff pastry, macadamia parfait, Earl Grey prunes and dark chocolate ice cream makes a splendid finale.