Ruth ‘Country House Rescue’ Watson & her husband David bring you a retreat for all seasons: summer drinks on the terrace give way to weekend papers in front of a roaring log fire, & the food keeps pace with a degree of seasonal flexibility. The result could be a lunch of potted brown shrimps followed by Orford-landed skate with black butter, spinach & new potatoes, sautéed lamb’s kidneys on toast or steak & kidney pie with mash or chunky chips. Haunch of venison with gratin dauphinoise or a fish stew packed with cod, bream, mussels, plaice & squid could appear at dinner. Factor in an enticing wine list topped up with lots of bargain bin ends & a choice of super bedrooms, & you have a great place to eat & stay – less than two hours’ drive from London.
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