Half-hidden down a one-way lane in the South Downs National Park, this former Victorian alehouse is owned by seasoned restaurateur Bruce Wass, who has an intelligent grasp of what people want to eat – witness an eclectic restaurant menu that touts the likes of moules marinière, devilled duck hearts with crispy artichokes and bone marrow or slow-cooked pork belly with quince aïoli, fennel and onion-seed crushed potato. Ingredients are sourced with unusual care, and desserts are well worth saving room for – perhaps roast pineapple with salted peanut-brittle ice cream. You can also nibble on five-cheese ploughman’s, charcuterie, pike quenelles or boudin blanc in the bar, terrace and garden. To drink, explore the range of microbrewery beers, and don’t miss out on the 200-bin wine list. Although it’s just 20 minutes from Brighton, this is a world away from the big-beach bustle.