Gee’s occupies a Victorian glasshouse set incongruously on an imposing residential stretch of the Banbury Road. It is discreet & utterly charming – the best sort of neighbourhood restaurant. A regularly changing menu of elegant, modern dishes is served in a cosseting setting of ornate chandeliers & white-clothed tables by courteous, efficient staff. The cooking is enthusiastic, & the overwhelming impression is of fresh, clean flavours & excellent ingredients – but don’t expect many surprises on the menu, which focuses on deftly prepared ideas from confit of duck to seared scallops with Jerusalem artichoke purée. Crab & saffron tart is a good way to start, ahead of – say – game pie with buttered greens or bourride of red mullet, brill & salt cod, with winter rhubarb ice cream to finish. The wine list is short & modish, with a good choice by the glass.