For more than 35 years, David and Rona Pitchford have run the best sort of neighbourhood restaurant, and when they moved to a covetable Georgian manor house in Faversham over a decade ago, it merely emphasised what they do so well. Inside, all is cosily domestic, although details such as delicate tulip-shaped wine glasses and a refreshingly restrained menu suggest serious culinary intent. The seasons matter here, and David’s highly assured cooking offers a very personal spin on the classic French repertoire, with plenty of thought going into harmonious combos such as a starter of sautéed tiger prawns with orange-infused Puy lentils, crystallized orange zest and Chardonnay butter sauce or a main of slow-cooked pork belly with sweet-and-sour plums, celeriac purée and a spiced pork sauce. The accomplished mood also runs through to desserts including hot prune and Armagnac soufflé with vanilla ice cream.
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