Waldo's at Cliveden

Foodess ( 50s, Female, United Kingdom )

Sedate does not quite describe Cliveden; ornate, majestic do depict the building with its austere entrance hall resembling that of a museum. The venue may be intimidating, but the dining experience in Waldo’s is thankfully not, as Horridge brings a sense of frivolity to the table whilst creating exacting dishes. Considering the superb grounds we could have viewed, it was a shame to be lead down into the basement where the dining area is split into two so as to form an intimate tone. A brick wall was the view through the only window, otherwise we could admire the faded glory of a room in need of refreshment. (A different menu is available at the Terrace from where there is presumably a view.) An almost hushed atmosphere was broken only by the distant sounds of distorted muzac and another diner having unluckily selected the Reggie Perrin chair…….a loud creak with each mouthful required me to stifle my schoolgirl humour – thank goodness I arrived totally sober.

Amuse bouche was a playful dish of olives, a creamy ball of cod liver oil & basil with a fizzing tomato essence (bubbles from white wine I guess). What followed was worthwhile especially duck of divine flavours and textures. Horrified at the prospect of blancmange as a pre-dessert, my pre-conception was immediately smashed when served here with summer berries. It was a menu option I wish I’d chosen being better than the Lime Burnt Cream which we both thought needed some real dairy to counteract the cloying pud.

Service was as it should be and the Wine List was not outlandishly priced as I thought it might have been. The Sommelier listened to what style we were after and surprisingly delivered a good Gigondas sub £50. £100/head all in seemed OK for all we’d eaten.

Being two of only six diners that evening we had the privilege of meeting Chris H who was very approachable and open enough to enlighten us about his experience here so far. I’d love to sample his food again, but Cliveden is not for us.