Le Poussin at Whitley Ridge

Superlatives suit this estate set in the New Forest and probably will even more so once the Spa is up and running. A visit to this part of the world is becoming an annual event for us, and as the ‘chief’ Poussin is now open [aka Limewood] in what was Parkhill as mentioned above, this is certainly a different scene from the now not so temporary Whitley Ridge site. Obviously designed to wow, the Georgian grandeur of the main building is off-set by a Court House (where we stayed) which almost has a Moorish look to it, then a set of buildings which wouldn’t be out of place in New England are to the rear providing more accommodation. Inside expense seemed not to be an issue either with the ‘piece de resistance’ being the opening glass roof over a delightful Courtyard for star gazing or semi-sheltered sunning where staff would oblige you with something to sup on. Apart from the grand, there was utilitarian, well not quite – a smart boot room housed almost entirely with pristine Wellies of all colours, patterns and sizes, a mantle piece decked with a selection of bicycle hats, to go with the wheels stored elsewhere, plus mini tri-cycles for the less stable and tinier proportioned folk.

Alex Aitken has now sold his share and stepped down to occupy consultant chef role. So how did the new man do? We ate in the Dining Room which is prissy and in-keeping with the rest of the building, where most people feel the need to dress for dinner.

We switched starters of Ravioli and Rabbit half-way through. (A creamy potato amuse bouche was unremarkable and too salty.) Rabbit was served with caramel carrot, but I didn’t get caramel at all and the thick raw strips of carrot did nothing for the bland and unsatisfying dish, so we were saved by the ravioli which satisfyingly oozed cheese. Bread kept rolling up no sooner than the last crumb had disappeared, which, given the lack of carbohydrate in 3 dishes, was a relief and worth taking. Sea-bass with fennel and crab awoke my palate which is where I ended my meal and was probably the best of all (lamb apparently disappointed and again lacked flavour). My partner selected and enjoyed a decent (not in size) pear tarte-tatin.

The Chef could never be accused of under-seasoning (which is a pet hate of mine anyway), but the accidental dose of salt in my breakfast herb omelette even made me wince as did the almost raw field mushroom. Alas, breakfast was not worth the half-hour plus wait for either of us, served in the Scullery which is rustic and befits its title.

Service was virtually impeccable throughout and most staff had a pleasing demeanour.

We were treated to an unexpected lightshow in our suite, being plunged into darkness after 30 mins of relaxation. Two bathroom lights with motion sensor worked independently but also intermittently, so if you ever stay in the two-storey CH1 do pack a torch so you don’t need to negotiate a dark stairway like I did. (I had to reach the main house to get one as phone was dead and mobile service was too.) We had an encore for morning shower located unfortunately away from daylight. For one night we saw the funny side without too much frustration, but I think this form of entertainment would soon wear thin.

This is not a food destination, but having spent £30m on refurb’ I should think the owner would want to try to make it one, so I hope it hops up a gear, because the venue is worth a visit.

July 09
As it was a birthday ‘bash’ we opted to stay overnight with friends in the New Forest at what I’d say is a restaurant with rooms. Having high hopes we started happily with house champagne to accompany canapé, then all four of us favouring red with meal agreed on a Bordeaux which won a repeat order.
Last summer I recall the food being average 1* Michelin, and alas I concluded again that great produce didn’t always yield great results. Unanimously superb amuse bouche raised expectations. Then, less than crispy battered Cod & Frog (with garlic and parsley sauce) was crying out for more parsley sauce, or at least seasoning, and did the menu state “Garlic” Frog? Other dishes were deftly done including a risotto with rich Madeira sauce which incited envy in me. My rabbit main was victim of fiddly treatment with veggies carefully ‘scattered’ around the edge, so cold from the outset, but loin rolled in proscuitto plus cutlet were delicious. However, the cold pot of rabbit rillette (on same plate) not only lacked flavour, was rather lardy – not just my opinion – and I think gratuitous. A simpler veal fillet main x 3 with peas & broads was completely coherent with the texture of butter and gained unanimous acclaim. No one could manage puds, so coffee, petit-fours & digestifs it was, except I resumed the flow of champers. Full Monty breakfast I’d hoped to be near perfect, but pale bacon (unturned) and anaemic sausage disappointed – presence of field mushroom, white & black pud didn’t. We liked hot toasts with homemade preserves and vitally decent coffee. Seconds of whatever requested followed swiftly maintaining the friendly seamless service from the night before. The room was clean and reasonably appointed but light incremental face lifts resulted in a slightly tired look. We don’t itch to return but £1K all in for 4 people seemed fair. Chef's move to Parkhill (as per SqM) has been delayed until Oct 09.

Whitely Ridge
A repeat visit for luncheon 17th November 2008

Tucked away in its own grounds just outside Brockenhurst, Whitely Ridge may present a challenge to those without satnav, but even on a grey November day it is well worth the taking the trouble to find if a good lunch is what you have in mind.

Do not be put off by the grey exterior of the building but instead enjoy the most magnificent oak tree in the centre of the turning circle outside the front door.

A friendly welcome at the front door will soon have you seated in front of an open fire in the lounge with a glass in your hand and the menu to consider. Delicate cheese straws accompanying stuffed baby tomatoes, or large sweet olives in their own mini kilner jar, aided decision making.

After the obligatory amuse bouche of watercress veloute with a subtle smoked salmon foam had been dispatched and the plates whisked away by an always attentive staff we were ready for the main challenge.
We chose the “Cannelloni” of Smoked Salmon with an avocado salsa, well presented, and ate as well as it looked. Our host had the creamy cheese soufflé baked twice with a glazed crust which was reported to just the right texture and without any of the slight harshness cooked cheese can sometimes develop.

The main courses arrived without any of the “who ordered the pork” ignorance that seems to be the hallmark of many restaurants who should know better. A fillet of cod with a crab and herb crust on crushed green peas with a mustard butter sauce was a most unusual idea that worked very well and with no risk of the sauce overpowering the fish.

The pork loin, belly and black pudding with apple cider sauce was maybe not as successful as the pork could have been better cooked and the crackling firmer.

Crème Brulee with blackberries dusted with sugar and a slender light twist of chocolate biscuit was surpassed, in our view, by poached pears accompanied by a delicate cornet ice cream; together they revealed a desert chef of some calibre.

At lunch fixed price options of £17.50 and £22.50 for two and three courses are very reasonable. On this occasion we were fortunate to be guests but Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at £10 for a 250 ml glass or other wine choices will push up the total bill fairly rapidly. Anyone who has a two course lunch and drinks tap water will have a real bargain; that is if you have the nerve.

Whitely Ridge always pleases; the service is exemplary, being fast and efficient without any sense of being smug or superior. The food is some of the best in the area and is easily better than its obvious rival Chewton Glen which, in our experience, can be very varied.