The Gingerman

Ben McKellar (he of the ginger hair) now cooks at Gingerman at Drakes on the seafront, but he keeps a keen eye on his original restaurant - a congenial little bistro set in a pretty street between the seafront & Western Road. There's a broad French orientation to the modern cooking, tempered with an instinctive understanding of simplicity of combinations, & this blend of interesting but not esoteric menu, friendly atmosphere & good value means ‘this has to rate as one of the best in Brighton.’ The kitchen makes the most of seasonal ingredients in dishes such as a robust wintertime beetroot & goats’ cheese risotto & glazed belly of Tamworth pig with braised split peas, honey & balsamic vinegar. Similarly, our bargain set lunch delivered a tasty appetiser of chicken veloute with coconut, a starter version of chilli meat balls with spaghetti, & grilled gigot of lamb with flageolet beans & roasted garlic – all deftly handled & carefully presented. An exquisitely rich banana souffle (Baileys cream poured into the centre) brought that meal to a sweet finish, although you may prefer to order another bottle from the very reasonably priced wine list & tuck into well kept English & Irish cheeses.