Manchester’s Midland hotel is where Rolls met Royce, and Simon Rogan’s takeover of its flagship restaurant, The French, makes for another excellent match. Famous for its glorious belle époque decor, the grand dining room has now sprouted some green tones (as befits Rogan’s fondness for all things hedgerow), while Manchester bling is provided by two spherical chandeliers. Fans of L’Enclume and Roganic will be comfortable with excellent, characterful six- or ten-course tasting menus (plus a three-course version at lunch) that demonstrate a complete understanding of British vegetables, herbs and flowers, as well as having some fun with puns: a tartare of beef with ’coal’ oil and kohlrabi – geddit? Head chef Adam Reid is in charge day-to-day, and there are plenty of capable new faces in the dining room – alongside the odd familiar one. Rogan’s next project is the reopening of the Midland’s larger restaurant, formerly The Colony. Manchester awaits.