The Market Restaurant

Fashion may rather have passed this homely restaurant by, but its army of loyal followers is no doubt grateful that an easygoing atmosphere and unstuffy, generous cooking are still at the heart of the operation. Decoration and table settings are of the traditional variety, as too are dishes such as air-dried Cheshire ham with celeriac and celery remoulade, and fillet of beef with horseradish pancake and Madeira wine gravy, which are commendable for their satisfying honesty and complete lack of pretension.