Gallic is the name of the game at this unashamedly French-run establishment – even the wine list keeps a confident distance from Italy, Spain & other arriviste nations. It’s a small concern in a converted house but don’t be fooled by the modern, understated dining room. Bernard Lignier’s classy food is staunchly regional French – his roots are in the south-west of France – & is abundantly generous in flavour & portions, often with luxury ingredients. So expect escalope of duck foie gras with pain d’epices & a sweet wine & grape sauce ahead of squab pigeon stuffed with mushrooms & served with petits pois a la francaise. Definitely one for the ravenous gourmet. Bookings only at lunch.