Splendid beacon of French classicism on the banks of the Thames. Michael Emmanuel ensures that the kitchen maintains standards in ‘classic French in food, style, attitude & presentation’, and puts luxury on a plate with the likes of lobster thermidor, oscietra caviar, foie gras & chateaubriand. Spit-roast duck is a speciality – ‘even if you don’t like duck the pre-dinner roasting is an event in itself’’ – & there is an excellent wine list (and nice rooms if you want to explore it).