Once the site of the ancient Welsh parliament, Llangoed Hall is now put to much better use as a stately country restaurant with 23 rooms decorated with antique furniture and works by Whistler, Sickert & Augustus John. Although being a guest in a grand country house may not suit everyone, the staff go out of their way to make you feel at home & the kitchen believes in fresh, local produce & careful preparation. Start with Pantysgawn goats' cheese custard with pickled walnut & rocket salad, then roast Welsh monkfish tail on a gremolata risotto with black & white seafood pudding & vanilla sauce to follow. To close, try the Llangoed pear plate (jelly, ice-cream, poached fruit, tart & charlotte) or delicious Welsh cheeses. The well-chosen wine list spans the range from Chateau Miraval (£17) to the 1959 Dom Perignon (don’t ask).