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The gorgeously romantic Witchery not only has a prime location by Edinburgh Castle, it also occupies genuinely archaic and atmospheric premises with extravagantly baronial decor – no wonder it’s a
favourite haunt of visiting celebrities and courting couples. Immune to culinary trends, the cooking remains largely Franco/Scots in style and the kitchen isn’t afraid of big flavours: shellfish
bisque, scallops en croûte or steak tartare with celeriac rémoulade could be followed by lamb Wellington, roast halibut with braised oxtail and fennel cream or a huge double sirloin served on the
bone with goose-fat chips. After that, perhaps chocolate tart with orange-blossom ice cream. If you want to sample the Witchery experience without paying top whack, take advantage of the two-course
lunch and theatre menu or the table d'hôte; either way, it’s worth splashing some extra cash on the remarkable wine list.