When Rick Stein opened his ground-breaking seafood restaurant in a touristy Cornish village back in 1975, he couldn’t have imagined that he was sowing the seeds of a local empire. Now you can eat your way around a plethora of Stein establishments in Padstow, but this illustrious venue remains the jewel in the crown. Quality is the watchword: the spacious interior, designed by Jill Stein, is bright and modern with a seafood bar at its heart, although exemplary fish cookery remains the big draw. Start with some local Porthilly oysters, grilled scallops with hazelnut and coriander butter or a ragoût of turbot and Ibérico ham with white miso sauce, before progressing to Singapore chilli crab, Indonesian seafood curry, lobster thermidor or perhaps a plate of cod and chips. Fish-friendly whites naturally dominate the auspicious wine list and the waterfront location is a dream.