Thirty years ago, when Rick Stein opened his ground-breaking seafood restaurant in a touristy Cornish village, he couldn’t have imagined that he was sowing the seeds of a local empire. Now you can eat your way around a plethora of Stein establishments in Padstow, but this illustrious venue remains the jewel in the crown. Quality is the watchword: the spacious interior, designed by Jill Stein, is bright and modern with a seafood bar at its heart, sending a clear message that exemplary local fish is still the main draw. Kick off with Carlingford or Porthilly oysters, a platter of fruits de mer or hot shellfish with parsley, chilli, olive oil and garlic, before progressing to Singapore chilli crab, Indonesian seafood curry or perhaps a plate of cod and chips. Fish-friendly whites naturally dominate the auspicious wine list.