Since launching Le Champignon Sauvage back in 1987, chef/patron David Everitt-Matthias has never missed a service. He has always delivered exquisite food in an oasis of classy calm but now, with a sack full of awards, he seems to have hit top gear. The restaurant’s fungal name and distinctive logo are reminders that the two-Michelin-starred chef loves his mushrooms, and these seasonal pickings (along with other wild foods and first-rate British ingredients) drive the menu. Red-hot technique and peerlessly subtle flavours are the kitchen’s hallmarks – expect a cavalcade of studiously fashioned plates ranging from hake fillet with mushroom blancmange, wilted sea vegetables and mushroom tea or Cinderford lamb with sweetbreads, dandelion, orange and goats’ curd to a heavenly chocolate délice teamed with milk ice cream, beurre noisette and butterscotch. David’s wife Helen oversees the subtly toned dining room, ensuring that this bastion of urbane, civilised dining keeps its local and personal cred sky high.