Ever-present in the kitchen since launching Le Champignon Sauvage in 1987, chef/patron David Everitt-Matthias knows a thing or two about delivering exquisite, two-Michelin-starred food. He applies red-hot technique to top-drawer produce and seasonal pickings (including wild mushrooms, of course), and his food is shot through with peerlessly subtle flavours – so expect a cavalcade of studiously fashioned plates ranging from hake fillet with mushroom blancmange, wilted sea vegetables and mushroom tea or Cinderford lamb with sweetbreads, dandelion, orange and goats’ curd to a “heavenly” chocolate délice teamed with milk ice cream, beurre noisette and butterscotch. The food is supported by a treasure trove of classy French and New World wines. While David cooks, his wife Helen oversees the subtly toned dining room, ensuring that this bastion of urbane, civilised dining retains its sky-high personal and local cred. ”No pretence, just simply good food”, confirms a fan.