Le Champignon Sauvage has been open for more than two decades, & has won a strong foodie following – not to mention two Michelin stars – thanks to the bold, innovative cooking of chef/proprietor David Everitt-Matthias, a chef who, to his credit, never misses a service. The restaurant’s loyal fan base has also been fostered by David’s wife, Helen, who manages the front of house with a canny balance of warmth, friendliness & breathtaking efficiency. David’s thrilling cuisine, characterised by punchy flavours & contrasting textures, includes seared, fat scallops served with a carpaccio of pig’s head & a pickled pear purée; cured pigeon breast with pigeon rillettes & tartare & fig compote; pavé of Gloucestershire Old Spot, with a meltingly tender braised pig’s cheek, pig’s head, smoked maple, & raisin puree; Cinderford lamb with lamb’s sweetbreads, pea puree, pistachio & wilted lettuce &, to finish, a bitter chocolate & olive tart with fennel ice cream. Alongside the gourmet delights is a remarkably fairly priced wine list that has clearly been put together with passion and that is particularly strong on France.