Le Champignon Sauvage

The 2006 winner of the BMW Square Meal Award for Best Out-of-Town Restaurant, Le Champignon Sauvage, has been open for almost two decades, & has won a strong foodie following – not to mention two Michelin stars – thanks to the bold, innovative cooking of chef/proprietor David Everitt-Matthias, a chef who, to his credit, never misses a service. The restaurant’s loyal fan base has also been fostered by David’s wife, Helen, who manages the front-of-house with a canny balance of warmth, friendliness & breathtaking efficiency. Yet, despite the already near perfection of it all, the Everitt-Matthiases have over the past year further polished their business, taking over the next-door premises to allow for a doubling of the size of the restaurant & its kitchen. But, this change is not about cramming in extra diners. Rather it’s about raising comfort levels & enhancing customer enjoyment. Indeed, they’ve only added a mere 12 extra covers (taking their capacity from 28 to 40). Apart from the extra space & the new tempered opulence of the place, the bigger kitchen is allowing David to further raise his game. He’s producing thrilling cuisine, characterised by punchy flavours & contrasting textures. Highlights include a silky foie gras royale topped with a warming chorizo foam; seared, fat Shetland scallops served with raw cauliflower, cauliflower puree & a cumin froth; pan-fried cock’s kidneys with a langoustine tortelloni & langoustine sauce, lifted with a clever garnish of cress-like pennywort; poached & roasted belly of Gloucestershire Old Spot, pumpkin puree & meltingly tender braised pig’s cheek; &, to finish, a chocolate delice with salted caramel hidden inside. Alongside the gourmet delights is a remarkably fairly priced wine list (bottles starting from £11) that is particularly strong on the Rhone. This is David’s favourite wine region, & he’s clearly put his selection together with passion.