After a lengthy closure following a kitchen fire, this coolly contemporary but accessible vegetarian restaurant has reopened with few visible changes. As ever, the kitchen knows how to dazzle when it comes to putting ingredients together, while the flavours in the astonishing Asian-edged food continue to challenge & excite. Long descriptions may baffle, but the results are all down to sublime spicing & inspired combinations. Oyster mushroom & nori salt tempura served with tamari certainly entices, as does ‘better batter & lemony yemeni relish’ (soft buttermilk-soaked haloumi dipped in batter with exotic add-ons) or Sussex soufflé & ploughman’s ‘picklewitch’. ‘Rain vodka cherry chocolate churros’ is a typically unusual dessert. Other plus points include an imaginative organic & biodynamic wine list, as well as personable, informed service.