The Anouska Hempel-designed Oak Room is deeply embedded in the heart of epically grandiose Danesfield House, and the understated luxury of its white-panelled interior will always be a draw for those seeking a cocoon rather than a playground. Following a brilliant seven-year stint, Michelin-starred chef Adam Simmonds has moved on, but his short-term replacement over the winter is no slouch. Billy Reid made his name at venues such as L’Escargot, The Belvedere and – more recently – Paradise by Way of Kensal Green, and his cooking is full of bright, modern ideas. Expect the likes of mackerel tartare with pickled cucumber and horseradish cream, venison with toasted salsify and quince fondant or cod fillet with buttered savoy cabbage and cockle butter, followed by desserts such as poached apple in blackcurrant syrup with honey ice cream. Smooth, knowledgeable service and a cracking wine list enhance the experience at this dazzling set-up.