Established back in 1988 and one of the first new restaurants in Glasgow’s regenerated Merchants quarter, this extended and upgraded eatery still retains its air of old-town style and continues to give fish and game a starring role on its menus. “Huge plates” of West Coast seafood naturally show up strongly – mussels, langoustines, oysters, lobsters (perhaps grilled with garlic butter) or extravagant platters loaded with a mighty selection of crustacea. Otherwise, expect modern European riffs such as beetroot tarte Tatin with goats’ cheese parfait, seared Hebridean salmon with crushed potatoes and shellfish ragoût or cod fillet with capers, celeriac purée and cep velouté. The kitchen also turns its hand to steaks, duck and venison, as well as traditional Scottish specialities such as steamed marmalade pudding with Drambuie custard. Readers have praised the “lovely staff” and “great-value” pre-theatre menus, too.