Edinburgh’s most insane, hedonistic and anarchic drinking den, the epic Port O’ Leith, is not for the fainthearted. On Friday or Saturday nights, it’s packed to the gunnels with half-dressed Leithers dancing on the tables and generally behaving as if the gentrification of this dockland district had never happened. This was once a sea dogs’ port of call – hence the anchor above the door, the flags and banknotes from far-flung lands, and the naval souvenirs nailed to the roof and walls. Presided over by one-woman rod of iron Mary Moriarty (think Peggy Mitchell on steroids), it has seen regulars ranging from Steven Berkoff and Irvine Welsh to the entire French Archaos Circus. The beer is fine and food is limited to bridies, but everyone is up for the craic at this warm, gritty and occasionally scary fragment of old Leith.