Manchester House is about confident contradictions. The glamour-heavy bar and industrial-lite dining room are in an office block, 10 floors apart; chef Aiden Byrne is a Liverpudlian, and his entrepreneurial backer Tim Bacon hails from Australia. Byrne’s highly worked, complex dishes make a bold statement – he’s known to a wider public from Great British Menu, and many of his TV hits such as prawn cocktail under a dome of passion fruit ice are on display here. But the best stuff is subtler, and relies on keen technique: truffle-poached chicken with baby artichokes is expertly handled, braised snails are intense under a blanket of potato purée, and smoky fire-roasted lamb is perfect – even if it is served out on a limb from an accompanying broth with gnocchi and faggots. Service should grow in ease and self-assurance, and though a simplified approach might also benefit the food, that may not be Byrne’s intention.