Chef Adam Stokes earned a Michelin star when he was at Glenapp Castle in Scotland, but defected across the border to open this self-named restaurant in increasingly food-conscious Birmingham. What was a sandwich shop in the city’s commercial district has been tricked out with faux marble, globe lights, mirrors and a cathedral-like trompe l’oeil centrepiece – a dramatic backdrop for Stokes’ formidable culinary talents. On offer is a choice of tasting menus (five or nine courses, plus the obligatory extras), defined by clever, playful conceits and terse dish descriptions – from ‘crab, coriander, sweetcorn, curry’ to ‘duck, rhubarb, charred red endive, baby turnip’. Opening salvos might include salmon tartare refreshingly embellished with radish, cucumber and pea sorbet, while desserts could feature a combo of strawberries, almond, lime and marshmallow. Lunch is a more straightforward prospect – you can even drop by for one course, if you like.