Jamal Ahmed’s personable restaurant in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle evokes the area of northern Iraq that he left as a teenager, and stakes its claim as the city’s only Kurdish eatery. With its shisha pipes on the covered terrace and literature relating to traditional culture, it provides an evocative backdrop for food with a broad gastronomic heritage. Starters include staples such as labneh, hummus, baba gannouj, falafel, kofte and dolma, while mains home in on regional specialities such as Persian gormeh sabzi (lamb with spinach, kidney beans and dried lime), Saudi chicken kabseh (a fruity rice dish) and Lebanon’s famously soujouk sausages. The super-sweet baklava, is a must for pudding. Remember that Hanam’s is ‘dry’ (ie unlicensed) – although they sell alcohol-free wines and beers. You can also BYO booze (no corkage).