This baby sibling of The Wheatsheaf Inn at Northleach is proving popular – so arrive early or book to be sure of a table. Beyond the bustling bar are several gorgeously quirky dining areas – think flea market meets Victoriana. Don't expect anything fancy here, but do expect to be impressed by the superb selection of real ales, the jamón ready to be carved on the bar and the emphasis on simple culinary pleasures. Grilled squid with gremolata and rocket makes a straight-talking starter, while a whole sea bream with tomatoes, basil, anchovies and new potatoes is a fresh and feisty main. There are big steaks with fries, appealing sides and imaginative main-course salads for healthier eaters, plus some fun desserts – a salted peanut caramel sundae perhaps, or raspberry and almond tart. Snappy service adds to the Chequers’ buzzy charm.