Squirrelled away behind the Empire Theatre in a quieter part of town, Maharaja brings a taste of south Indian cooking to the streets of Liverpool. The menu lists some curry-house standards (lamb biryani, chicken tikka masala, rogan josh), but the roster of Keralan specialities offers a range of more distinctive, lighter flavours. Dosas with sambar and coconut chutney are popular, but also look for duck olathu, poricha meen (‘fish fry’ with fierce red chillis), and prawns cooked in coconut milk with green mango. This is a good spot for veggies who fancy something more interesting than Bombay potatoes, and there are some unusual desserts too. There isn’t much in the way of decor – large windows looking out onto the street, a few pieces of traditional Indian art, pristine white-clothed tables – but the atmosphere is convivial and prices are fair.