The residents of Wootton must have been thrilled to hear that the owners of The Ebrington Arms near Chipping Campden were taking over their tired village boozer. This big old Cotswold-stone building started life as a farmhouse – revitalisation has retained much of its period charm – and it‘s pleasantly situated in countryside close to Blenheim Palace. Although the open kitchen gives notice that the emphasis is on food, there’s plenty of space for drinkers and dog walkers in the comfortable bar. The kitchen cares about provenance and seasonality, and the menu delivers classics such as smoked mackerel with horseradish cream alongside more unusual combinations including Cornish plaice with roasted celeriac, cockle popcorn, hazelnut and white truffle oil pesto. Elsewhere, there are homemade ice creams, chutneys and sausages, as well as beer from the owners’ Yubberton Brewing Company. Affable, unhurried service too.