Set in the tiny Cotswold village of Ebrington, this cosy spot typifies the notion of a quintessential country local – although the food is far from your average pub grub. The sophisticated seasonal menu is focused on local sourcing and the kitchen shows a sure touch: witness a clever starter of pressed ham hock comprising two deliciously meaty medallions served with fried quail’s egg and a sweet, spicy hit of peppered pineapple. To follow, perfectly crisp pork belly with sweet potato and stuffed Savoy cabbage is a nicely balanced plateful, although it’s outdone by a textured feuilleté of juicy tiger prawns, scallops and mussels in a delicate dill cream. Desserts such as zesty orange trifle and properly matured cheeses add further appeal, while the interesting wine list and award-winning ales are well worth exploring. Five pretty bedrooms, too.