Meander down pretty Goodramgate to find the pleasant, dark-green facade of Ambiente, set on the corner of a quaint medieval building. By contrast, the interior of this likeable restaurant exhibits a homely Mediterranean charm with its moody red colour scheme, barrel-top tables at the bar, and shelves stacked with Spanish wines occupying one wall. Familiar tapas such as boquerones and albondigas spiked with chilli and lemongrass dominate the sizeable menu, alongside various paellas and more adventurous takes on atypical British dishes (‘morcilla Scotch eggs’, anyone?). The kitchen is also prepared to push the culinary envelope with ideas such as ‘bananacurry’ – a curious marriage of spicy banana and butternut squash. Ambiente’s only shortcoming is its early closing time – it’s disappointing to have to mop up your patatas bravas and drain the last of your Muga Rioja before 9.30pm.