It sounds like a firm of solicitors, but Hartnett, Holder & Co is actually the result of smart tie- in between Michelin-starred Angela Hartnett and Lime Wood’s head chef, Luke Holder. Following a makeover from designer Martin Brudnizki, what was the hotel’s swanky dining room now sports a casual English look with a panelled dark-oak bar, flattering lighting, Brit art and secluded corner sofas. ‘Fun’ is the mantra and the food mixes locally sourced ingredients with Hartnett’s love of all things Italian: home-cured meats from the smokehouse have just the right tangy succulence, halibut sits in a puddle of briny-fresh cockle broth, and plates of silky spaghetti are topped with generous hunks of Isle of Wight lobster and piquant chilli. To finish, zabaglione isn’t whipped to a traditional frenzy – but its creaminess still pleases. Staff are sweet and very solicitous.