Above Leeds’ smart new inside-outside shopping centre, Crafthouse (and its sibling Angelica) are the first regional restaurants from capital-based operator D&D London. The lofty position allows for views through lots of glass and a large terrace, but there’s plenty to look at inside, with an open kitchen dominating the first of two dining rooms done in sober but stylish tones. Service is carefully inclusive, pitched slightly low for customers attracted by Josper-grilled meats (from Ginger Pig) or flamed veal kidney with shallots, parsley, mustard and tagliatelle. Simplicity reigns in starters of Bridlington crab on toast (brown meat pounded into a mayonnaise and spread on brioche under flakes of the white flesh), as well as puds such as burnt Cambridge cream or sherry trifle. Add-ons such as the kids’ section can be wobbly, but for grown-ups there’s consolation in plenty of wines by the glass.