Sometimes it’s hard to imagine that a restaurant as far from the coast as this really can serve up the freshest fish. But they do. ‘The Med’ has been delighting customers for 25 years, and was an institution long before Sharrow Vale Road became cool. Seafood arrives daily from Grimsby and is cooked as simply as possible: lobster is seasoned and flashed on the stove, sea bass is beautifully steamed and served whole, while deeply flavoured fish soup has the colour of Farrow & Ball’s dramatic ‘eating room red’; elsewhere, monkfish tails are just that, with a couple of thyme-scattered spuds and a single, enormous langoustine. Everyone working here is from countries bordering the Mediterranean – including the Moroccan owner, whose warm, chatty style is a tonic at any time of the year.