Run by two brothers, KoolBa is nominally Indian, although it leavens its offer with light, fragrant overtones from Persia. The menu offers a trip along the ancient spice routes from Punjab and you can get a flavour of things from the fascinating selection of hot and cold starters: try chicken olivieh with chopped egg, potato and pickle cucumber or mirza ghassemi (grilled aubergines and eggs in tomato sauce), alongside fish pakoras, chana poori and chicken chaat. By contrast, mains are mostly generic Indian staples, from bhunas, dupiazas and kormas to garlic and chilli chicken, kofta kebabs and king prawn balti. Drinks include a fair selection of reasonably priced wines, but the star turn is the surprising collection of world beers, including the likes of Argentinian Quilmes or Polish Zyweic. To finish, order a spicy Arabic coffee.