It’s quite a squeeze inside this admirable neighbourhood bistro, which spreads itself over two floors with a bookable mezzanine for private bashes. This is a clean-cut, buzzy and hospitable venue with food that punches above its weight for quality and eclectic innovation. Scottish produce is at the heart of seasonal dishes such as cured haunch of venison with pickled vegetables, blue cheese, rye bread and apricot purée or braised pork belly (from Ramsay’s of Carluke) served with shallot purée, wild mushrooms, peas and broccoli ‘ketchup’. Faraway flavours and ingredients are also stirred into the pot – witness a duo of braised shoulder and confit breast of Ayrshire lamb with tabbouleh, smoked aubergine purée, pomegranate molasses and feta. To finish, Scots-themed spiced oatmeal cake comes with poached orange, butterscotch and orange blossom custard, or you might prefer a fun combo of strawberries, marshmallows and meringue.