The owner of this refreshingly untouristy taverna imports organic olive oil directly from his family’s groves in Crete – a sure sign that Elia is big on native roots and authenticity. He’s also regularly out front, chatting to his customers and generally ensuring that things run smoothly. Written in Greek, with English translations, the menu mixes indigenous peasant-style specialities with a helping of Scottish produce – as in steamed mussels or medallions of beef in light lemon sauce. Elsewhere, familiar names such as moussaka, kleftiko and stifado share the billing with kotokeftedes (chicken meatballs seasoned with Greek herbs) or voskou (pork chops topped with yoghurt and melted Cretan cheese). There‘s also a full quota of mezze, while desserts include galektoboureko – a filo pastry flan with sweet syrup and cinnamon. Wines from the Greek islands loom large on the well-priced list.