Originally a members-only club, this stately gothic building is now open to allcomers but retains an air of exclusivity. Smart, impeccably behaved staff oversee the upscale, wood-panelled dining room, while the French-accented cooking shows plenty of playful modern touches – witness crisp, deep-fried lobster ‘fish fingers’ jazzed up with satay chutney and chilli ketchup. Elsewhere, a meal from the excellent-value tasting menu might deliver caramelised Kelmscott pork belly with marinated prune and Pedro Ximénez caramel (a sticky, rich, sweet-savoury delight) and lavender-spiced Creedy Carver duck with a breaded duck ‘bonbon’, peaches, potato and fennel purée and orange-scented sauce. To finish, a perfect doughnut perched atop a shot glass of strawberry jelly and coulis layered with pannacotta has impressed – likewise the serious wine list. In all, the food is a good match for its rather grand setting.