Once the resident gardener’s cottage attached to Edinburgh’s Royal Terrace Gardens, this B-listed building is now home to a rustic, enterprising eatery dedicated to seasonal food. Communal tables, Sunday school chairs and paint-splattered floorboards set the tone in the come-as-you-please dining room, or you can sit outside among the greenery. It’s “not very Edinburgh”, noted one visitor, but the results are “fantastic”. Dinner is a no-choice, six-course menu (check Facebook each day for details) and the emphasis is on reinvented British heritage food, with influences from faraway lands: crispy chicken skin with beer mayo; pig’s tongue dumpling and winter salad; BBQ mackerel with barley, burnt onions and yoghurt; hay-roast lamb with gnocchi and purple sprouting broccoli; smoked pumpkin mousse, chocolate cream and hazelnut meringue. Lunch is a simpler carte and there’s weekend brunch too, plus a smart little wine list.