If you ignore the cheesy subtitle (‘where beauty meats the beast’) and exuberant, blokey styling, the good news is that Steak delivers exactly what it promises. With high ceilings and hard wooden surfaces it’s not tête-à-tête territory, but chef Jason Wright has a good pedigree in and around the city (Dakota Hotel, Ondine) and knows where to source quality beef. Weekend brunch and pre-theatre deals are worth noting, but the focus is on a beefy carte – sirloin, fillet, rump, rib-eye and T-bone with assorted sauces, although pricing most cuts per 100g seems rather contrived. Meanwhile, chateaubriand, beef Wellington, côte de boeuf and larger T-bones can be carved at your table, while other options include lamb, pork and wolf fish. Order oxtail soup (with a puff pastry lid) to start, and round off with a popcorn sundae.