Opened in 1990, Stac Polly has built up a reputation as one of the leading purveyors of Scottish produce in Edinburgh. It enjoys added historical cred by occupying a bona fide Georgian basement of interlinked rooms, with elegant tableware and tasteful prints offsetting the below-stairs frisson of bare stone walls. The dinner menu takes a larder full of sound native ingredients and poshes them up to give la cuisine française a run for its euro. Three typical courses might travel from smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade with wasabi and saffron mayo, via Aberdeen Angus rib-eye with fondant potato, black pudding, wild mushrooms, fine beans and whisky jus to lemon cheesecake with blackcurrant ice cream and red fruit coulis. The approach is hardly new, but the overall experience should appeal to tourists as well as traditionalists.