29 July 2014

The Old Coastguard

The Parade, Mousehole, Penzance, Cornwall TR19 6PR

£35.00 Modern European Cornwall
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  • Lunch: ££14/£17.50 (2/3 courses Mon-Sat)
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12.30-2.30pm 6.30-9pm

Square Meal Review of The Old Coastguard ?

Younger sibling of The Gurnard’s Head in nearby Treen and the Felin Fach Griffin in Brecon, The Old Coastguard overlooks the Lizard and its immaculate enclosed tropical garden leads down to a coastal path along the harbour wall. The bar and open-plan dining room have a farmhouse feel with sage and sunflower-yellow walls, chunky wood tables and piles of chopped logs next to the huge fireplace. With the port of Newlyn just two miles along the coast, it comes as no surprise that local seafood is a strong suit, although Cornish meat, vegetables and game from local estates also appear on the seasonal menu. Salt cod croquettes with smoked paprika mayonnaise might precede pork chop with sauerkraut and sage, a bowl of bouillabaisse or beetroot risotto with Rosary goats’ cheese and walnuts. To finish, warm poached pear with clotted cream should suffice.

Wine List of the Year Award Finalist

From the team behind the Felin Fach Griffin and The Gurnard’s Head, this Cornish pub list is cut from the same cloth. The 17 wines are available in two sizes of glass/carafe, a page of whites, a page of reds and a page of New World, all at decent prices.

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