Like its sibling in Chiswick, this branch of Canta Napoli scores with its vibrant surrounds, pleasing atmosphere and honest food. The interior is a light, airy open space with monochrome stills from Italian movies on the walls, huge numbers of blond-wood tables and chairs, and splashes of colour from red pillars and blue paintwork. There’s a Neapolitan flavour to the extensive menu, which works its way through bruschetti, pizzas and regional pastas (orecchiette with broccoli, sausages, sun-fried tomatoes and parmesan, for example), as well as a selection of pagnotelle (special ‘sandwiches’ with fillings like chicken, mozzarella and onions). Alternatively order something more substantial (a grilled buffalo steak, say), followed by an authentic Neapolitan dessert such as pastiera (ricotta cake with vanilla, lemon and orange peel). The food is backed by a creditable list of regional Italian wines.