Simon and Janet Baker have been running this quirky but cosy restaurant for over 15 years, and have never wavered when it comes to delivering imaginative food, charm and warmth. Scrubbed oak floors, frilly shaded standard lamps and one-off collectibles (salvaged Blackpool Illuminations, anyone?) set the tone, and the accessible menu has a Mediterranean slant while deploying decent local spoils too: a combo of Whitby crab with lemon, parsley, Jerusalem artichoke crisps, blood orange syrup and Melba toast is a cracking starter, as is a hot salad of caramelised pears, borlotti beans and black pudding with pancetta. Lamb kleftiko – meltingly tender leg slow-cooked in paper with lemon, garlic, thyme and quince – is your last Greek holiday on a plate, although puddings stick closer to home for, say, pink rhubarb soup with praline-coated buttermilk ice cream. A thoroughly enjoyable place.