It’s only been plying its trade on Dartmouth Embankment for a few years, but The Seahorse already has a timeless quality reminiscent of a long-serving, family-run eatery in an Italian backstreet. Mitch Tonks has positioned himself as the natural successor to Rick Stein’s crown when it comes to seafood, and it would be hard to find fresher local fish unless you landed it yourself. Much of the daily catch comes from nearby Brixham, and the kitchen treats it with due respect. The charcoal-fired Josper oven is the focus here, and it extracts maximum flavour from the likes of scallops roasted with white port and garlic. Monkfish grilled over the fire with olive oil and Provençal herbs is one of several dishes to share, while puds might include refreshing blood orange, Prosecco and Campari jelly. The extensive wine list leans heavily on Italy.