A grand Scottish pile on the banks of Loch Lomond, Cameron House Hotel makes the perfect setting for the Highlands outpost of Martin Wishart’s acclaimed Edinburgh restaurant. The views are glorious and the beautifully designed interior feels fresh and modern while giving a nod to classical elegance, although the main talking point is the cooking – as poised and artfully styled as the surroundings. One of Wishart’s deputies runs the kitchen, delivering food with real stature and a feel for Scottish produce. A starter of Kilbrannan langoustines with roasted veal sweetbreads, pumpkin, sweet yellow pepper and coconut velouté might precede roast onglet of beef with ruby chard, pomme galette, celeriac, black garlic and Szechuan pepper sauce. For dessert, maybe lemon curd and passion fruit jelly with Knockraich crème fraîche, sorrel granité and citrus marshmallow. Service is on the money too.